Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
